Date: 30 Nov 2008 08:30 pm (UTC)
The padded-hem coats are uchikake, and were required noble overrobes until Edo, hence why they're still required for brides.

I can't tell about the wrist-side of Kusuri-uri's sleeves, but I've read that the sharper the angle at the bottom, the more authority the wearer has? Which is why women's sleeves are always more curved at the bottom-wrist-side than men's, and furisode moreso than tomesode (unmarried vs. married), and children's moreso than furisode. (The only exception seems to be miyamairi first-month kimono, which are draped over the baby like a cape rather than seriously worn.) So the sleeves actually look backwards-young woman-casual to me.

Which brings me to the point you made about his lipstick, that he turns expectations upside-down etc.... maybe that's why his collar is pulled so far back from his neck and his obi is tied that way? Both are feminine styles.
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